"Working by Hand" (Winemaking)

Winemaking: Petite Sirah At-A-Glance
Most common styles
Still, sweet (small amounts of late-harvest are made)
Winemaker choices and options
Virtually all winemakers make use of available options (skin contact, ML, lees stirring, choice of fermentation vessel, etc.)
Aging
All options used, from stainless steel to concrete and oak (barrels, vats, barriques, oak alternatives)
Aging potential (yes/no). If “yes,” give range
Yes. While entry-level examples should be enjoyed young, most are best 2-10 years after release, while the best bottlings have the potential to age 25-40 years
Presented solo or frequently blended with
Very malleable. While there are pure 100% bottles, still wines blended with “fraternal” varieties are prevalent, as in “mixed black” blends. That said, most vintners enjoy combining the grape with other red grapes to add color, tannin, alcohol, and structure.

Working By Hand

Perhaps the most important choice facing the winemaker concerns when to pick. The choice of when to harvest depends on the style of wine the winemaker desires. The challenge for winemakers is to work in the vineyard and the winery to obtain wines that are fresh, flavorful, and balanced, without too high alcohol. In California’s old Petite Sirah vineyards, the harvesting decision comes with added complexity as they often contain several different varieties. Winemakers can either harvest Petite Sirah and other varieties at separate times or ferment them separately and blend them later.

The choice here is to use them or not. Like many grape varieties, Petite Sirah is best when the fruit comes from old vines. California’s Petite Sirah producers may label their wines “old vines,” “ancient vines,” or “heritage vines.”  Since none of these terms are legally controlled by the TTB, they mean whatever the producer decides. Over 50 years of age is commonly accepted, although some winemakers scoff and suggest at least 80 while others may dip as low as 30. 

What it does

Old vines have lower yields, which equate to more concentrated fruit and less of it. 

Comment

The organoleptic results are always worth it - greater concentration, deeper, richer flavors and mouth volume, but the cost of farming and amount of harvested fruit per vine and per hectare may not be. It is  both a personal and emotional decision along with being a commercial one. More often than not, what is claimed to be an older Petite Sirah vineyard is going to be a combination of Durif augmented by other grapes, including Carignan, Zinfandel, and Alicante Bouschet and, at times, some even lesser-known varieties such as Mataro (Mourvèdre), Mondeuse, Trousseau, Poulsard, and indeed, Peloursin.

What it does

Proponents of wild yeast embrace the unique flavors attributed to “place,” including savory and matchstick-like aromas that many love and associate with minimal intervention. Cultivated yeasts are more predictable and can be selected/customized to contribute specific flavors and aromas.

Comment

Some winemakers blend the two -- sometimes starting with native yeast, reserving use of commercial yeast only if something does not go right (e.g., fixing a stuck fermentation). That said, with Petite Sirah, it’s most common to work with commercial yeasts, with winemakers arguing that they need yeasts that can handle Petite’s high alcohol and high acidity and can ferment at cool temperatures (and do so quickly and thoroughly). 

The wood employed for most wine barrels, used for aging the wine or actual fermentation of the wine in the barrel. Barrel decisions include the type of wood, the amount of toast (when the staves of the barrels are bent over an open flame), size (smaller = higher ratio of wood to wine = stronger oak influence) and the age of the barrels. 

What it does

  • Chocolate, mocha and vanilla flavors that many identify with Petite Sirah come not from the grape but from oak-aging.
  • Heavily toasted barrels impart more intense roasted flavors (caramel, molasses, toffee, coffee and burnt sugar).
  • Oak bestows a waxy, velvety texture and can add a perceived sweetness to the wine. 
  • New oak contributes much more flavor than older, previously used oak which, depending on the wine and the grapes, may be a better choice. 
  • Small (barrique-sized) barrel fermentation at warmer temperatures than those in stainless steel and over shorter increments of time also imparts a richer, smoother texture to the wine. 

Comment

Today, there is a movement towards keeping the oak in check, i.e., minimizing “over-oaking,” or even using no oak. Many vintners mature their Petite in a combination of American and French oak barrels although there remains a camp that prefers uniquely American wood for its hint of baking spice sweetness, and a few winemakers use older Bourbon barrels for the charred vanilla caramel character.

The vintner's practice of working with the tannin, minimizing or maximizing its presence in the wine. Tannins can be maximized by letting the wine spend extended time on the grape skins (which also adds color) both before and after fermentation

What it does

Controls texture and mouthfeel and mitigates bitter and stringent elements, flavor-wise and tactilely.

Comment

Tannins can be minimized by cutting back on the maceration or via a very gentle filtration. To soften hard tannins, vintners are increasingly turning to a process called micro-oxygenation. while bringing out the bright character of the fruit and adding a rich mouthfeel. Left unchecked, Petite Sirah’s tannins can be excessive. If the fruit lacks complete ripeness, tannins can be green, abrasive and unpleasant. Shorter post-fermentation macerations are key, as well as chasing balanced ripeness in the vineyard. 

As noted above, a Petite Sirah vineyard may be a composite of Petite Sirah and other grapes as in a “mixed blacks” wine. Occasionally but rarely, these wines fall below 85% variety and carry a proprietary name instead. 

What it does

Adds diverse flavors and an extra layer of complexity.

Comment

Blends result in different styles of wine. Increasing the proportions of other grapes can augment Petite Sirah’s profile at times. That said, the primary blending use for Petite Sirah has really been more about adding it to other wines to increase color, tannin, and structural backbone. Although you may not be aware of it, and while it is not always disclosed on the label, you may have been drinking Petite Sirah unknowingly in some of your favorite wines labeled as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Zinfandel and beyond.