Roussanne

There is not much of this variety in the Golden State, with Roussanne cultivated in just 24 of California’s 58 counties. While no region overly dominates quantitatively, the best expressions are concentrated in two spots, San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara County, both in the Central Coast. Given the viticultural and historical challenges, producers who are committed to quality are the state’s focus. Prime vineyard locations (such as Paso Robles or Santa Ynez) typically feature high-calcium soils and fairly extreme diurnal/seasonal temperature variations). In the end, the reality is that fewer than 129 ha/319 acres of Roussanne are planted to wine grapes in California.

Roussanne is generally regarded as one of the less economical white varieties to produce because it is beyond finicky about growing conditions: it isn't a big producer and is susceptible to several rots and mildews. To top it off, the berries ripen late, making rot an even greater problem in regions where mid- to late-fall rains are prevalent. Nonetheless, dedicated producers in California and around the world remain firm in the belief that the rewards outweigh the challenges.

• France: Rhône Valley (Hermitage, Saint Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage, Saint-Péray, and Châteauneuf-du-Pape), the Costières de Nîmes, Languedoc-Roussillon, Provence, Loire Valley, and Savoie

• Australia: All over. Best in Victoria (Nagambie Lakes, King Valley), and South Australia (Barossa, McLaren Vale)
• Switzerland: Valais
• The Americas: Washington and Oregon states; Canada, notably in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, Chile (Central Valley, especially Rapel, and Aconcagua, notably in Casablanca)
• Other countries: Italy (Liguria and Tuscany), and South Africa (Paarl, Stellenbosch)