Rigatoni with Pork Rib Sugo
The baby back ribs that most people throw on the barbecue make a succulent, rustic pasta sauce. You’ll need a friendly butcher to saw across the ribs for you, but the rest of the method is easy. The sauce (sugo in Italian) reheats well so you can make it a day ahead. Set your formal manners aside here. The best way to enjoy this dish is to nibble the meat off the riblets between bites of pasta. Cutting the meat off would spoil the fun!
When life gives you sweet, California-grown tomatoes, make chilaquiles, a genius use for tortillas that are a few days old. September is the height of the harvest for the meaty plum tomatoes that make thick, flavorful sauce. Resist the temptation to substitute store-bought tortilla chips for the home-fried tortillas; the chips soften too much, and the result is not nearly as satisfying.