Mourvèdre

Ingredients and Styles

There are three distinct categories of Mourvèdre: reds that are powerful and usually pure, reds that are easy-drinking (and likely blended), and rosés. For fuller-styled wines, rich red-wine fare is the ticket. Red meat, rich poultry, and game are all classic matches, as are rustic stews, sausages, and anything from the grill. Ample spicing, especially pepper, rosemary and other strong flavors that often overwhelm other wines, can go well with Mourvèdre. Grilled eggplant, roast squab, and steak au poivre are seamless with this style of the grape. With lighter reds, tone down the intense spice and pick up on the fruit: try duck with thyme and olives with rich, peppery, meaty styles of Mourvèdre, and Peking duck with a fruity, Monastrell-Garnacha blend. Tomato sauces also pair easily with softer interpretations, whereas they make more robust-style  wines taste metallic and sharp. Herb-marinated meat en brochette is an excellent tablemate, especially accompanied by grilled vegetables. Actually, almost anything flavorful en brochette is good with red Mourvèdres, though fish and some lighter poultry pair better with rosés. 

The rosé wines are excellent with flavorful fish preparations. The Provençal  appetizer spread of warm brandade (salt cod and potato), chunky tuna crostini, or a plate of sardines marinated in olive oil are flavorful, harmonious matches. Salmon, stuffed trout, a simply prepared chicken breast on the bone, and ratatouille would pair nicely with most Mourvèdre-driven rosé blends.

Mourvèdre pairs well with: 

• Duck, squab, and wild pheasant (as a red). Rich and flavorful game birds are at home with Mourvèdre. Choose sweeter, smokier preparations for the medium- to full-bodied blends and coarser and spicier dishes for the bigger wines. Duck with sausage or the classic Provençal  duck with olives is great for the ample wines, while Peking or tea-smoked duck may be better with a fruit-forward California version. 

• Dark mushrooms (as a red). Mourvèdre seems to pair well with morels, porcini, and even reconstituted Chinese dried black mushrooms. Use them as an accent rather than as a dominant flavoring and note how they bring out the intense spice and mineral tones in the Mourvèdre. 

• Peppery dishes (as a red). To me, the classic flavors you find in Mourvèdre, regardless of origin, are pepper and meatiness. Pick up on the pepper and meat together, and you have a great match. Beef carpaccio with a heavy dose of cracked black pepper, lemon, and Parmesan; traditional steak au poivre; or a filet mignon with a green peppercorn, Cognac, and a cream sauce are all good choices. 

• A fritto of fish and shellfish (as a rosé). I'm a sucker for almost anything that's taken from the water and rolled in a batter of egg and flour before finding its ultimate gastronomic destiny in a deep fryer. Top it with a little romesco sauce or Provençal rouille and serve with a bottle of Mourvèdre rosé, and you'll have a wonderful afternoon or evening. 

• Fish and light poultry (as a rosé). From a turkey kebab (see below) to swordfish served with olives, rosemary, capers, and tomato concassé, the blush interpretations are flexible with recipes that the bigger reds might steamroller. 

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Mourvèdre does not pair well: 

• By itself (as a red). This is a variety that demands food. It needs only a bowl of fried olives, a plate of chorizo, or a selection of tapas as an accompaniment, but it's less interesting and pleasant when drunk solo. 

• With most white meat (as a red). The subtle sweetness of pork and veal tend to get lost behind the ample red versions of Mourvèdre. They're not terrible matches, but I like the delicacy of a roast pork loin, a light Asian pork stir-fry, or an unadorned veal chop, and I don't want to have to work too hard to enjoy them through the wine's commanding presence. 

• With seafood (as a red). Some people argue that meaty fish can hold its own with these rich red wines. I find that unless you specifically cook to the wine (grilling and serving the fish with bridging sauces), the wine doesn't make the fish taste better, and the fish doesn't make the wine taste better, so why bother? 

• With many sauces (as a red). This result is peculiar, though there are exceptions: Mourvèdre based wines are good with either peppery and spicy sauces or with meat dishes drizzled with olive oil or served with a compound butter with garlic and herbs. But keep these wines away from sauces that are mildly sweet, tart, or hot.